Horse first-aid kit: what to include and how to use it

Horses are good at finding trouble – a fence, a sharp edge, a kick from a paddock mate. A well-stocked first-aid kit means you can deal with minor problems and keep a horse safe and comfortable while you wait for the vet with bigger ones. Knowing what goes in a kit is part of Pony Club Australia's certificate syllabus, and higher certificates expect members to describe each item's use and bandage a minor leg wound (PCA Syllabus).

A first-aid kit doesn't replace your vet. Victoria's Code of Practice says sick or injured horses must receive prompt veterinary or other appropriate treatment (Code of Practice). When in doubt, call.

Before an emergency

The University of Minnesota Extension recommends having these ready at your stable or property (UMN Extension – basic horse first aid):

• Your first-aid kit
• Your vet's phone number (and an after-hours number)
• Names and numbers of friends who can help
• Clear directions to the nearest equine hospital
• Transport arrangements
• An emergency evacuation plan

In Australia, bushfire and flood plans are especially important. Agriculture Victoria recommends having a plan for your horse in an emergency, microchipping your horse and making sure your property has a PIC so horses and owners can be identified (Agriculture Victoria – basic horse care). See fire and emergency plan.

Know what's normal

You can't spot what's abnormal unless you know what's normal for your horse. UMN recommends learning to take vital signs before an emergency (UMN Extension). Penn State Extension, citing the American Association of Equine Practitioners, gives these normal ranges for adult horses at rest (Penn State Extension – vital signs):

Sign	Normal adult range
Temperature	99–101.5°F (about 37.2–38.6°C)
Heart rate	28–44 beats per minute
Breathing	10–24 breaths per minute
Gums	Moist and pink
Capillary refill	1–2 seconds

Published ranges vary slightly between sources, so record your own horse's values on a few calm days. See horse vital signs.

What to put in the kit

This checklist is based on the University of Minnesota's recommended kit (UMN Extension), grouped and adapted for Australian and New Zealand owners. Ask your vet to review it for your horse and region.

Information

• Vet's phone number and after-hours emergency number
• Map or directions to the nearest equine hospital
• Your horse's normal vital signs, any medical conditions and medication allergies

Checking the horse

• Digital thermometer (with lubricant and a string and clip to attach it to the tail)
• Stethoscope
• Torch with spare batteries – a head torch frees your hands

Cleaning wounds

• Sterile saline for flushing wounds and eyes
• Clean syringe without a needle, 20 ml or larger, for flushing
• Unbreakable bowl for clean water or saline
• Antiseptic scrub or solution (such as povidone-iodine). UMN advises using it only diluted to a weak-tea colour, and not around the eyes.
• Disposable gloves
• Haemostats or tweezers to remove dirt and debris

Dressing and bandaging

• Non-stick wound pads
• Gauze swabs
• Cotton wool or cotton padding (sheet or roll)
• Cohesive bandage (vet wrap)
• Elastic bandages
• Adhesive tape and duct tape – duct tape is useful for hoof dressings
• Absorbent pads (such as disposable nappies) to soak up blood or make a hoof poultice pad
• Blunt-ended scissors

UMN notes that the inner layers of bandaging are best kept sterile (UMN Extension). See bandaging a horse – a badly applied bandage can do harm.

Hoof and leg emergencies

• Pliers or shoe pullers – but leave a nail or other object in a foot until you've spoken to your vet (see below)
• Hoof pick
• Splint material – UMN suggests a length of PVC pipe split lengthwise, for use under vet direction

Medications – only on your vet's advice

• Eye ointment recommended by your vet
• Any prescribed medications for your horse, clearly labelled with dose instructions

UMN cautions against medicating without your vet's advice: pain relief such as phenylbutazone ("bute") can hide signs your vet needs to assess, and some drugs are dangerous if given the wrong way (UMN Extension). Never give medication that hasn't been prescribed for that horse.

Useful extras

• Spare headcollar and lead rope
• Clean towels
• Bucket and clean sponge
• Fly repellent (for wounds in summer, ask your vet about suitable products)
• Notebook and pen to record vital signs and times

Kits for the float and the trail

Keep a second, smaller kit in your float or truck, and a compact one for long rides. A travel kit should include the basics for cleaning and covering a wound, a thermometer, your vet's number and a knife to cut a rope in an emergency. See preparing a horse to travel and horse float safety checks.

Looking after the kit

• Store it in a clean, waterproof box in a cool place, somewhere everyone at the property can find it.
• Check it every few months and after every use. Replace used items and anything past its expiry date.
• Keep human first-aid supplies separately, and have a human first-aid kit too.

When to call the vet straight away

UMN lists situations where you should call your vet right away rather than treat a wound yourself (UMN Extension), including wounds that:

• Go deeper than the skin or bleed heavily
• Leak clear, sticky fluid (possible joint or tendon sheath involvement)
• Are over a joint, regardless of size
• Are on the back of a leg below the knee or hock
• Are in the frog, over the chest or belly, or involve the penis or sheath

Puncture wounds can be the most dangerous, whatever their size. If a nail or other object is in the foot or leg, UMN advises checking with your vet before removing it, because its position helps the vet assess damage (UMN Extension).

Victoria's Code of Practice also lists serious injuries – deep wounds, severe bleeding, suspected fractures, eye injuries – and colic, sudden lameness, difficulty rising or standing, and signs of laminitis among conditions that may need prompt veterinary attention (Code of Practice). See horse colic, laminitis and horse first aid.

Keep up to date with tetanus

Wounds carry a risk of tetanus. Victoria's Code recommends routine tetanus vaccination (Code of Practice). Check your horse's vaccinations are current, and tell your vet the status when you call about a wound. See horse vaccinations.

Learn the skills

A kit is only useful if you know how to use it. The BHS Stage 2 syllabus covers basic first-aid procedures for wounds (BHS Stage 2 Care). Ask your vet or Pony Club about first-aid sessions, and practise taking vital signs and bandaging on a calm horse.

Find an equine vet near you on horse.work, and save their number in your phone today.

FAQ

What should be in a basic horse first-aid kit?

At minimum: your vet's number, a thermometer, saline and a syringe for flushing, diluted antiseptic, non-stick pads, padding, cohesive and elastic bandages, tape, scissors, gloves and a torch (UMN Extension).

Should I keep bute in my first-aid kit?

Only if your vet has prescribed it for your horse, with clear instructions. Pain relief can mask signs your vet needs to see (UMN Extension).

What is a normal temperature for a horse?

Penn State Extension gives 99–101.5°F (about 37.2–38.6°C) for adult horses (Penn State Extension). Learn your own horse's normal range.

Should I pull a nail out of my horse's foot?

Check with your vet first. Its position helps the vet assess the damage (UMN Extension).

How often should I check my first-aid kit?

Every few months and after each use, replacing used or expired items.