Horse rugging guide for Australia and New Zealand

Rugging is one of the most common things horse owners do, and one of the least understood. An Australian survey of 2,659 horses found that 84.8% were rugged at some point in the year, yet 69.5% of owners said they weren't sure whether their horse needed a rug at all (Australian Veterinary Journal survey). This guide explains how horses manage their own temperature, when a rug genuinely helps, and how to tell if you have got it wrong.

It doesn't give a one-size-fits-all chart of rug weights by temperature. No Australian or New Zealand authority publishes one, because the right answer depends on the individual horse. Instead, it gives you a way to decide.

How horses keep warm (and cool)

Horses hold their core body temperature between about 37 and 38.5°C. Across a range of air temperatures called the thermoneutral zone, they can do this without spending extra energy (AVJ survey and the research it reviews).

• The lower critical temperature – where a horse starts burning extra energy to keep warm – has been put at below 5°C for horses not used to cold winters. Horses acclimatised to harsh winters can cope well below that.
• The upper critical temperature – where a horse starts working to lose heat – sits somewhere between 20 and 30°C.
• People are comfortable in a much narrower and warmer band, so "I'm cold, so my horse must be cold" is a poor guide. In the same survey, 42.8% of owners believed horses feel cold if they are not rugged.

A healthy horse also has its own insulation: a winter coat, a layer of body fat, and heat produced by digesting forage. That's why extra hay is often a better first answer to a cold snap than another rug (see how much to feed a horse).

When a rug genuinely helps

Rugs are a tool for specific situations, not a default. The situations where they earn their keep are:

Wind and rain together

Wet and wind strip the insulating loft from a coat. Agriculture Victoria warns that wind, rain and dampness can cause a horse to lose body condition or become ill very quickly, and recommends either shelter or a rug to cut exposure so the horse burns fewer calories keeping warm (Agriculture Victoria – winter care). If you can give good shelter (trees, a walk-in shed or a stable), you may not need a rug as often.

Clipped horses

A clipped horse has lost much of its insulation. Victoria's Code of Practice says horses clipped during winter should be rugged, except when working or in very mild weather (Code of Practice for the Welfare of Horses). Match the rug to how much coat you took off – see our horse clipping guide.

Horses that can't hold condition

Older horses, horses with poor teeth (see horse dental care), very lean horses and some unwell horses lose condition fast in cold, wet weather. For these horses a rug can reduce the energy spent keeping warm. Pair it with a feed plan and regular body condition scoring, and talk to your vet about any horse that keeps dropping weight.

Fly and sun protection

Fly rugs and masks can reduce insect irritation. But be careful in hot weather – see the cotton rug research below.

When a rug can do harm

Over-rugging and heat stress

The same survey found that 21.4% of horses were still rugged when temperatures were above 20°C, which is already inside the range where some horses start working to shed heat (AVJ survey). Victoria's Code sets a minimum standard that rugging must suit the weather and must not cause heat stress (Code of Practice). Pony Club Australia's B Certificate also expects riders to explain the dangers of over-rugging and how rug choice relates to climate and the horse's thermoneutral zone (PCA B Certificate assessment sheet).

Light cotton rugs in full sun

It's common to put a light cotton rug on in summer to keep a horse clean or to keep flies off. A Charles Sturt University pilot study tied horses in direct sun for two hours, half with a light-coloured cotton rug and half without. The rugged horses had higher rectal temperatures and sweated more, though they swished their tails less (Padalino et al., Charles Sturt University). The researchers' advice for the Australian summer was shade rather than these rugs.

Rubs, injuries and hidden weight changes

Rugs hide the horse. Victoria's minimum standards require rugged horses to be checked often for injury or entanglement, and rugs to be taken off at least weekly so you can check body condition, skin and rubbing (Code of Practice). Agriculture Victoria also recommends looking for water leaking through the rug (winter care). New Zealand's Code of Welfare covers rugs, shelter and body condition under its minimum standards too (MPI Code of Welfare: Horses and Donkeys).

A practical way to decide

Work through these questions each time the weather changes, rather than following the calendar.

1. What is the weather actually doing?

Look at the forecast low and whether it will be wet and windy. A dry, still, cold night is very different from a wet, windy one at the same temperature. Check the forecast for where your horse lives, not where you live.

2. What does this horse have to keep it warm?

• Full winter coat, or clipped? How much was clipped?
• Body condition – lean, ideal or carrying extra weight?
• Age and health – young, old, unwell, poor teeth?
• Is it used to the local climate? A horse that has just come from Queensland to Tasmania, or from the North Island to Southland, may feel the cold more at first.

3. What shelter is available?

Trees, hedges and gullies give some shelter, and Victoria's Code notes that landscape features like these help (Code of Practice). A walk-in shed or stable gives more. Good shelter reduces how much rug a horse needs. Read more in shelter and water in the paddock.

4. Is there enough feed?

Forage is fuel for warmth. If pasture is short, add hay before adding layers. Agriculture Victoria advises keeping horses above condition score 2, and preferably at 3, through winter (winter care).

5. Check the horse, not just the thermometer

Slide a flat hand under the rug at the shoulder, behind the elbow and over the loins:

• Warm and dry – about right.
• Damp or sweaty – too much rug, or the rug is leaking.
• Cold to the touch on the body (not just the ears and legs) with shivering or a tucked-up stance – the horse may need more help: more feed, better shelter or more rug.

Choosing the right type of rug

Different jobs need different rugs. For a full rundown see horse rug types explained, but in short:

• Turnout rugs are waterproof for paddock use. Victoria's Code says rugs used in wet weather should be waterproof (Code of Practice).
• Stable rugs aren't waterproof and are for horses kept in.
• Coolers wick moisture from a hot or wet horse after work.
• Fly rugs and masks are for insect protection. Use the lightest option and give shade.

Pony Club Australia expects B Certificate candidates to be able to compare canvas, synthetic and cotton or summer rugs for the local climate (PCA B Certificate).

Fit matters as much as warmth

A poorly fitting rug can rub, slip or tangle a horse in its straps. The BHS Stage 1 syllabus checks fit by length, depth and strap adjustment, and the usual places for rubs and sores (BHS Stage 1 Care syllabus). Victoria's Code says any rug that has caused injury or disease shouldn't go back on the horse, and that horses should get used to wearing a rug before being turned out in one (Code of Practice). Our rug fitting guide shows how to measure.

Quick fit checks:

• The rug should sit in front of the withers without pressing on them.
• You should be able to run your hand under the neck and shoulder without it catching.
• Belly surcingles should be snug enough that a hoof can't go through.
• Leg straps should be linked through each other and adjusted so they don't rub inside the thighs.
• Rug size is a measurement: from the centre of the chest, along the side, to the point of the buttock (see our rug fitting guide). Once it is on, the rug should cover the hindquarters back towards the tail without pulling at the chest, and be deep enough to cover the belly.

Signs you are over-rugging

• Sweat under the rug, damp patches or a sweaty neck when you take it off.
• A dull, flat coat or skin irritation under the rug.
• Restlessness, rubbing against fences, or increased breathing on warm days.
• Weight gain in a horse that is supposed to be losing weight. Fat horses gain little from being kept warm.

If you see these, take a layer off, give shade and water, and check again in a few hours.

Looking after rugs

Clean, repaired rugs last longer and are less likely to rub. Victoria's Code calls for rugs to be well fitting and in good repair (Code of Practice). See rug care and washing for how to wash, re-proof and store them.

Need a rug repaired or a horse clipped? Find a grooming and clipping service near you on horse.work or browse saddleries near you for rugs and fittings.

FAQ

At what temperature should I rug my horse?

There isn't one temperature that suits every horse. Research puts the lower critical temperature of horses not used to cold winters at below 5°C, and the upper critical temperature at 20–30°C (AVJ survey). Wind, rain, clip, condition, age and shelter matter as much as the number on the thermometer.

Do horses need rugs in Australia?

Many don't, much of the time. A healthy, unclipped horse in good condition with shelter and enough forage often copes without one. Rugs help most for clipped horses, horses that struggle to hold condition, and in wet, windy weather.

Is a cotton rug a good idea in summer?

Not in direct sun. A Charles Sturt University pilot study found light cotton rugs raised horses' rectal temperatures and sweating in the sun (CSU study). Shade is the better option for heat.

How often should I take the rug off?

Check rugged horses daily. In Victoria, rugs must come off at least weekly to inspect body condition, skin and any rubbing (Code of Practice). Many owners check under the rug every day.

Should I rug a clipped horse?

Generally yes, in cool or cold weather, except while it is working or when the weather is very mild (Code of Practice).

My horse is shivering – what should I do?

Get it out of the wind and rain, give it hay, and add a dry rug. If shivering continues, or the horse seems dull or unwell, call your vet – see signs of a healthy horse.