Horse clipping guide: clip types, when to clip and how to do it safely

Clipping removes some or all of a horse's winter coat so it can work without sweating heavily and dry off faster. It's common for horses in regular work through the cooler months. But clipping takes away insulation, so it comes with a commitment to rugs and shelter. This guide covers why and when to clip, which clip to choose, and how to do it safely.

Why clip?

The College of Agriculture, Food and Rural Enterprise (CAFRE), a government agricultural college in Northern Ireland, explains the main reasons (CAFRE – horse clipping tips):

• Less sweating during work. Heavy sweating in a thick coat can cause stress and weight loss.
• Faster drying. A long coat can stay wet for hours after work, and the horse may get chilled.
• Easier grooming. Less hair means less mud.

Not every horse needs clipping. A horse in light work, living out without much rugging, may be better off keeping its full coat. Pony Club Australia expects members to be able to discuss clipping styles and the reasons behind them (PCA Syllabus).

When to clip in Australia and New Zealand

Horses grow a winter coat in response to shortening days. CAFRE notes that the shorter days of autumn trigger thicker coat growth, and that most horses there need two or three clips over winter (CAFRE).

In the southern hemisphere, that means:

• First clip: once the winter coat has come through in autumn – often around March to May, depending on your region and the horse.
• Repeat clips: as the coat grows back, if the horse is still in work.
• Last clip: CAFRE advises a cut-off for the last clip before the coat starts changing for summer. In the UK that's March; the southern hemisphere equivalent is around the end of winter. Clipping too late can affect the new summer coat.

Climate varies enormously – a horse in tropical Queensland may barely grow a winter coat, while one in Southland or the Victorian high country grows a thick one. Watch your horse rather than the calendar.

Types of clip

The more hair you remove, the more rugging and shelter the horse needs. CAFRE describes the common clips as follows (CAFRE):

Full clip

All the coat is removed, including the legs and often the head. For horses in hard, regular work, usually stabled, with full rugging.

Hunter clip

All the coat removed except a saddle patch and the legs. Also for horses in hard work. The leg hair gives some protection from mud and scratches.

Blanket clip

The neck and belly are clipped, but hair is left over the back and loins in the shape of an exercise sheet, and on the legs. Suits horses in medium work that are turned out daily in suitable rugs.

Trace or chaser clip

Hair is removed from the underside of the neck, chest, belly and the sides where horses sweat most, but left on the top of the neck and back. The line can be set high or low. Popular for horses that are turned out during the day.

Irish or bib clip

Removes hair only from the front of the neck, chest and around the elbows. Suits young horses and those in light work, and CAFRE says it lets a horse live out full time if well rugged and with shelter.

Clip	Hair removed	Typical horse	Rugging needs
Full	Everything	Hard work, stabled	Highest
Hunter	All but legs and saddle patch	Hard work	High
Blanket	Neck and belly	Medium work, daily turnout	Moderate–high
Trace/chaser	Lower body and neck	Turned out by day	Moderate
Bib/Irish	Front of neck and chest	Light work, young horses	Lowest

Rugs and shelter after clipping

A clipped horse has lost part of its natural insulation. Victoria's Code of Practice for the Welfare of Horses says horses clipped in winter should be rugged, except when working or in very mild weather (Code of Practice). Match the rug to the clip and the weather – a fully clipped horse needs more than a bib-clipped one – and remember the risks of over-rugging on warm days. An Australian survey found many owners were unsure whether their horses needed rugs at all (Australian Veterinary Journal survey). Our horse rugging guide explains how to judge.

Getting ready to clip

Equipment

CAFRE recommends (CAFRE):

• Serviced clippers with sharp blades – you may need two sets per clip
• A safe, flat, non-slip, well-lit area close to power
• A power supply protected by a safety switch (RCD). Safe Work Australia requires workplaces to use RCDs, where reasonably practicable, for plug-in equipment that's moved around often or used in damp or dusty conditions, with a tripping current of no more than 30 mA (Safe Work Australia). Clipping in a yard or stable ticks those boxes, so it's sensible protection at home too. Check the lead for damage before you start.
• Clipper oil and a brush to clean the blades
• A tail bandage, mane bands and chalk to mark clip lines
• A full haynet to keep the horse occupied
• Clean, well-fitting rugs ready to cover areas you've finished

The horse

• Clean and completely dry. CAFRE advises washing the day before if the weather allows. Never clip a damp or sweaty horse – the hair clogs the blades and pulls the coat.
• Used to the clippers. Young or nervous horses can be introduced near a quiet, experienced horse being clipped.

You and your helper

CAFRE recommends a helmet with hair tied back, overalls, rubber-soled boots and no jewellery. The handler should understand horses, stand on the same side as the person clipping and follow instructions (CAFRE).

How to clip: step by step

Adapted from CAFRE's guidance (CAFRE):

1. Check clipper tension and oil before starting.
2. Plait and bandage the tail and band the mane out of the way.
3. Let the horse hear the clippers. Turn them on nearby for a minute or two, then hold them against the shoulder while they're off, then on, so the horse feels the vibration.
4. Start at the shoulder, using long, overlapping strokes against the direction of hair growth.
5. Stop regularly to brush hair off the blades and re-oil. Hot blades can burn the skin – check by touching them to the back of your hand.
6. Take care in tricky areas – between the legs, around the elbows and flanks. Your helper can hold a foreleg forward to smooth the skin folds.
7. Use smaller clippers for the head and ears, if you're clipping those areas.
8. Use a head torch for the belly and underside, especially in the evening.

Afterwards

• Brush off loose hair and wipe over with a warm damp cloth to reduce itchiness under rugs.
• Remove the tail bandage and mane bands, and rug the horse appropriately.
• Clean, oil and store the clippers in a dry place.
• Check the horse again about an hour later to make sure it's warm enough and eating and drinking normally (CAFRE).

Horses that are difficult to clip

Some horses are frightened of clippers. Go slowly, use quieter clippers, and keep sessions short. Don't rely on restraint alone; a horse that is genuinely frightened can hurt itself and you. Your vet can advise on sedation for horses that can't be clipped safely. See difficult horses.

If you'd rather leave it to a professional, find a grooming and clipping service near you on horse.work.

FAQ

When should I clip my horse in Australia?

Once the winter coat comes through in autumn, if the horse is working enough to sweat heavily. Timing depends on your climate and the horse – watch the coat, not the calendar.

Which clip is best for a horse that lives out?

A bib/Irish or trace clip removes less coat and suits horses turned out, with rugs and shelter. CAFRE suggests a bib or Irish clip can allow a horse to live out full time if adequately rugged and sheltered (CAFRE).

Does a clipped horse need a rug?

In cool or cold weather, yes. Victoria's Code says horses clipped in winter should be rugged except when working or in very mild weather (Code of Practice).

Can I clip a wet horse?

No. Hair from a damp or sweaty horse clogs the blades and pulls the coat (CAFRE).

How often do I need to clip?

CAFRE notes most horses there need two or three clips per winter (CAFRE). In milder parts of Australia and NZ, one or two may be enough.