Horse bedding types compared: straw, shavings, pellets, paper and more

Most Australian and New Zealand horses live out, but stabled horses, yarded horses, foaling mares and horses on box rest all need bedding. In Victoria, it's a minimum standard: appropriate clean bedding must be provided in stables and loose boxes for warmth, insulation and protection from abrasion (Code of Practice for the Welfare of Horses).

The right bedding depends on your horse's health, your budget, what you can buy locally, and how you'll get rid of the used bedding. This guide compares the common options.

What good bedding needs to do

• Cushion and insulate so the horse can lie down comfortably and won't graze its hocks and elbows.
• Absorb urine and keep the surface reasonably dry.
• Keep dust and ammonia low, because both affect breathing.
• Be safe to eat if the horse nibbles it.
• Be practical – affordable, easy to buy, store and muck out, and easy to dispose of.

Victoria's Code also says dust in stables should be kept to a minimum to reduce respiratory disease, that stables should be well ventilated, and that dirty bedding should be removed each day (Code of Practice).

Dust and ammonia: why they matter

Ammonia forms when bacteria break down urea in urine and manure. A University of Tennessee/University of Florida extension bulletin explains that ammonia irritates the eyes and the lining of the airways, and that breathing it can contribute to respiratory disease (UT Extension – Strategies for Reducing Ammonia in Horse Barns).

Dust, especially fine organic dust containing mould spores and mites, is a concern for lung health. A Swiss study tested eight bedding materials under standard conditions and found (Agrarforschung Schweiz):

• Fine dust varied a lot between materials, and some products were still above recommended dust limits 20 minutes after the bedding was turned.
• Ammonia from all materials rose well above the recommended level after five days without cleaning.
• Deeper bedding reduced ammonia in the material where depth was tested.
• The authors concluded that bedding choice alone can't fix dust and ammonia – management matters just as much.

The practical message: pick a low-dust product, keep it clean, lay it deep enough, and ventilate the stable. For horses with breathing problems, see respiratory problems in horses.

The main bedding types

Straw

Wheat, barley or oat straw is the traditional bed.

Pros: warm and comfortable; drains well; easy to compost and often welcomed by gardeners; usually cheap where grain is grown. Cons: can be dusty or mouldy if poorly made or stored; some horses eat it; bulky to store; often higher ammonia.

In the Tennessee/Florida pilot, ammonia readings near urine spots were generally higher and more variable on straw than on shavings (UT Extension). The same bulletin notes straw is recommended for foaling boxes, to reduce the risk of a foal inhaling or eating shavings.

Wood shavings

Kiln-dried, bagged shavings (often pine) are widely available from produce and feed stores.

Pros: absorbent; usually lower ammonia than straw in the study above; horses rarely eat them; bagged shavings are easy to store. Cons: quality varies – look for dust-extracted products; slower to compost; can stick to rugs and tails.

Avoid black walnut shavings. The MSD Veterinary Manual lists exposure to black walnut shavings as a cause of laminitis (MSD Veterinary Manual). Buy from a known supplier that can tell you the timber species. Loose sawmill shavings may contain unknown timbers, splinters or chemicals.

Wood pellets

Compressed sawdust pellets that expand when wet.

Pros: very absorbent; compact to store and transport; low waste when managed well. Cons: need wetting and breaking down when first laid; can be dusty once broken down – in the Swiss study, wood granules were among the higher fine-dust materials (Agrarforschung Schweiz); can be hard underfoot if laid thin.

Shredded paper and cardboard

Pros: often low in organic dust; absorbent; may be available cheaply. Cons: gets heavy and soggy; can blow around; inks and staples are a concern with low-quality product; mixed reputation for composting.

Hemp, flax and other plant fibres

Pros: very absorbent; compost well. Cons: usually more expensive and less widely available. In the Swiss study, hemp products – especially hemp with added eucalyptus – had the highest fine-dust readings (Agrarforschung Schweiz). Results can vary by brand.

Rubber mats

Rubber mats aren't a bed on their own, but they give a non-slip, cushioned base and can reduce how much bedding you need.

Pros: easy to clean; reduce bedding costs; long-lasting. Cons: high upfront cost; urine can collect underneath. The Tennessee/Florida bulletin recommends seamless or interlocking mats because gaps and seams let urine collect (UT Extension). Always add enough bedding on top for the horse to lie down comfortably and to absorb urine.

Sand and other options

Sand is sometimes used in yards and very dry areas. Horses that eat off sandy ground risk sand colic, so feed off the ground in no-spill containers (Code of Practice). See horse colic.

Quick comparison

Bedding	Comfort	Dust	Ammonia control	Storage	Composting
Straw	Good	Varies with quality	Generally lower than shavings	Bulky	Easy
Shavings	Good	Choose dust-extracted	Generally better than straw	Bagged	Slower
Pellets	Good when broken down	Can rise after breakdown	Good absorbency	Compact	Fair
Paper	Fair	Often low	Fair	Bagged	Varies
Hemp/flax	Good	Can be high	Good absorbency	Bagged	Good

This table is a general guide drawn from the sources above; individual products vary. Ask your supplier for dust-extraction details.

Managing the bed

Bedding works best with good daily management:

• Remove droppings and wet patches every day. The Tennessee/Florida bulletin calls removing urine-soaked bedding the most basic step in reducing ammonia, done daily or twice daily (UT Extension).
• Lay it deep enough, with banks around the walls for comfort and to reduce the risk of a horse getting cast.
• Let dust settle. Because fine dust can hang in the air after bedding is turned (Agrarforschung Schweiz), muck out and re-lay beds while the horse is out of the stable where you can.
• Ventilate. Victoria's Code prefers air vents on opposite sides of the box (Code of Practice).
• Don't overfeed protein. Excess protein is excreted in urine and adds to ammonia (UT Extension).
• Store bedding dry and away from feed, and check for mould before use.

Bedding types are part of the Pony Club Australia certificate syllabus, and mucking out is a core BHS Stage 1 skill (BHS Stage 1 Care; Pony Club Australia Syllabus). Our how to muck out guide covers the routine, and muck heap management covers disposal.

Choosing for your situation

• Horse with a cough or breathing problems: choose the lowest-dust product you can find, keep the stable well ventilated, and talk to your vet.
• Foaling box: straw is commonly recommended (UT Extension).
• Horse that eats its bed: shavings, pellets or paper rather than straw.
• Small property with limited storage: bagged shavings or pellets.
• Need to compost or give away waste: straw, hemp or paper composts readily.
• Laminitis or box rest: a deep, soft bed helps; ask your vet whether a particular product is preferred.

Find feed and produce stores near you on horse.work to compare local bedding prices.

FAQ

What is the best bedding for horses?

There's no single best bedding. The right choice balances low dust, good absorbency and comfort with cost and availability. Research suggests management – daily cleaning, depth and ventilation – matters as much as the material (Agrarforschung Schweiz).

Is straw or shavings better for horses?

Both work. In one US pilot study, shavings generally gave lower ammonia readings than straw (UT Extension), but straw is preferred for foaling boxes and composts more easily.

Are any wood shavings dangerous?

Yes. Black walnut shavings can cause laminitis (MSD Veterinary Manual). Buy shavings from a supplier who can confirm the timber.

How often should I change my horse's bedding?

Remove droppings and wet bedding every day (Code of Practice), and top up as needed. How often you strip the whole bed depends on the material and system you use.

Do I need bedding on rubber mats?

Yes, enough to absorb urine and let the horse lie down comfortably. Victoria's Code requires appropriate clean bedding in stables and loose boxes (Code of Practice).