How to groom a horse: a step-by-step routine

Grooming keeps your horse clean and comfortable, but it's also your best daily health check. Running your hands and brushes over every part of the horse is how you find the small cut, the warm leg or the tick before they become a bigger problem. The British Horse Society's Stage 1 syllabus lists appearance, health and welfare, and your relationship with the horse as reasons to groom (BHS Stage 1 Care). Grooming is one of the very first skills in Pony Club Australia's certificates too (PCA Syllabus).

What you need

A basic grooming kit (see grooming kit essentials for more):

• Hoof pick – ideally with a brush on one side
• Rubber curry comb – loosens dried mud, hair and grease
• Dandy brush – stiff bristles for removing dried mud
• Body brush – short, dense, soft bristles for removing dust and grease
• Metal curry comb – for cleaning the body brush, not for use on the horse
• Mane and tail brush or comb
• Sponges – separate ones for the eyes and nose, and for the dock area
• Stable rubber (a cloth) – for a final polish
• Fly spray or repellent in warmer months

These are the items identified in the BHS Stage 1 syllabus (BHS Stage 1 Care). Keep each horse's kit separate where you can, to reduce the spread of skin infections.

Safety first

• Tie the horse up with a quick-release knot to a breakable string loop, or have someone hold it. See headcollar and tying up.
• Stand close and to the side, not directly in front or behind. Keep a hand on the horse so it knows where you are.
• Don't kneel or sit on the ground near the legs – crouch so you can move away quickly.
• Wear sturdy boots. A helmet is sensible with young or unfamiliar horses.
• Watch the horse's reactions. Pinned ears, tail swishing, stamping or turning to bite can mean the horse is uncomfortable or sore. Ease off and check why.

A step-by-step grooming routine

This order is the one BHS coaches teach in their introductory horse-care sessions (BHS – Caring for your Horse, Bronze session plans), adapted here for Australian and New Zealand conditions.

1. Pick out the feet

Start with the feet so you don't track dirt over a clean horse. Run your hand down the back of the leg and ask the horse to lift its foot. Clean from heel towards the toe, clearing the grooves either side of the frog. Check for:

• Stones or sticks wedged in the foot
• A bad smell or black discharge (possible thrush)
• Loose shoes or risen nail clenches
• Cracks or bruising

Victoria's Code of Practice says the hooves of working horses should be checked every day for injury, loose shoes or stones (Code of Practice). Learn the parts of the foot with our parts of the hoof guide.

2. Loosen mud and hair with the rubber curry comb

Work in small circles over the fleshy parts of the neck, body and hindquarters to lift mud, loose hair and grease. Go gently over bony areas, and avoid the face and lower legs.

3. Flick off mud with the dandy brush

Use short, flicking strokes in the direction of the hair. The BHS suggests not using the dandy brush on the mane and tail, and taking care on sensitive areas (BHS Bronze session plans). It's useful on the legs for dried mud, but use it gently or switch to a softer brush on clipped or thin-skinned horses.

4. Body brush

Hold the body brush in the hand nearest the horse and the metal curry comb in the other. Brush firmly in the direction of the hair, working from the neck backwards. After every few strokes, draw the brush across the metal curry comb to clean it, then tap the curry comb out (BHS Bronze session plans). Swap hands for the other side.

5. Mane and tail

Separate tangles with your fingers first, then brush from the ends upwards in small sections. For thin manes and tails, finger-combing alone helps avoid breaking hairs. Stand to the side of the hindquarters when doing the tail, not directly behind. See tail care.

6. Head

Untie the horse (keeping the lead rope over your arm) or slip the headcollar around the neck, and use a soft brush or the stable rubber around the face, taking care near the eyes (BHS Bronze session plans).

7. Sponge eyes, nose and dock

Use a damp sponge for the eyes and nostrils, and a separate one for the dock area.

8. Finish

Wipe over with the stable rubber for shine. Some owners apply hoof oil or conditioner, but ask your farrier whether it suits your horse's feet.

Use your hands

Throughout, use your bare hands to feel for lumps, heat, cuts, swellings or sore spots (BHS Bronze session plans). Run a hand down each leg and compare left to right. In Australia and New Zealand, also check for:

• Ticks. Paralysis ticks are usually found in coastal eastern Australia in late winter, spring and summer. They can kill a young foal, while adult horses have some resistance (RSPCA Knowledgebase). Adults aren't immune, though: a review of 103 presumed tick cases in Australian horses included horses from one week to 18 years old (Australian Veterinary Journal, 2012). If you find a tick or your horse seems weak or wobbly, call your vet.
• Greasy heel, rain scald or skin crusting after wet weather – see skin conditions.
• Rubs from rugs or tack.

This is a good time to run through a mini health check – see signs of a healthy horse.

Grooming paddock-kept horses

Most horses in Australia and New Zealand live out. A paddock-kept horse needs less polishing and more checking:

• Pick out the feet and check them every day.
• Brush off mud where tack and rugs will sit, so they don't rub.
• Don't over-groom unrugged horses in winter. The British Horse Society advises against it, because it can strip the natural oils that help waterproof the coat. Still remove mud from wherever tack will sit, to prevent rubbing (BHS – winter care).
• Check under rugs. Victoria's Code requires rugs to be removed at least weekly to check condition, skin and rubbing (Code of Practice). Many owners check daily.

Grooming after work

The BHS Stage 1 syllabus covers grooming after exercise: check for injuries, wash or brush off sweat, and use a cooler if needed (see horse rug types) (BHS Stage 1 Care). In hot weather, hose or sponge off sweat and scrape off excess water. On cool days, keep the horse covered while it dries. See washing a horse.

How often to groom

There's no set rule. A daily check – feet, body, legs and eyes – is ideal, and Agriculture Victoria recommends checking horses at least daily (Agriculture Victoria – basic horse care). A thorough groom is usually done before riding and whenever the horse needs it.

Keep the kit clean

Wash brushes regularly in warm soapy water, rinse well and dry them in the sun. If a horse has a skin infection, keep its kit separate and ask your vet about disinfecting it.

Need help preparing for a show, or a horse clipped? Find a grooming and clipping service near you on horse.work. For shoeing or trimming, find a farrier near you.

FAQ

What order should you groom a horse in?

A common order is: pick out the feet, rubber curry comb, dandy brush, body brush (cleaned with the metal curry comb), mane and tail, head, sponges, then a stable rubber (BHS Bronze session plans).

What is a body brush used for?

Removing dust and grease from the coat. Clean it with a metal curry comb every few strokes. Don't use the metal curry comb on the horse.

Should I groom a horse that lives outside?

Yes, but differently. Check feet and body daily and brush off mud where tack sits, but don't over-groom an unrugged horse in winter, as it can strip the oils that waterproof the coat (BHS – winter care).

How do I pick up a horse's foot safely?

Stand beside the shoulder or hindquarter facing the tail, run your hand down the back of the leg, and lean gently into the horse while asking it to lift. Keep your head clear of the knee and hock.

Why does my horse not like being groomed?

Sensitive skin, a brush that's too stiff, sore muscles, skin conditions or rough handling are common causes. Try softer brushes and lighter pressure, and talk to your vet if the horse seems sore.